As we drove around Le Marche, I was beginning to sink into the rhythm of “Slow Italy” – wandering around medieval towns, gaping at some real gems of Renaissance art, the mandatory evening passeggiata, followed by a local liqueur at the corner cafe – life in Le Marche is all about slowly savouring the moment, and then some more. One of my favourite places in the region was Ascoli Piceno, known as the city of 100 towers. While historical records show that the city had some 200 towers, today about 50 of them still stand – quiet sentinels, presiding over this medieval city built in marble.
Ascoli Piceno’s foundations pre-date those of Rome’s by several centuries; the city was established by the Italic tribe of Piceni on the important salt trade route known as Via Salaria. Ascoli has a long, proud history – from being a federated city in 268 BC to revolting against Rome in 91 BC, from being ruled by the Lombards and the Franks in the Middle Ages, to finally becoming a part of Le Marche and unified Italy in 1860.
Begin with Piazza Arringo, the oldest monumental square in Ascoli Piceno. It’s surrounded by several important buildings, including the Cathedral of St. Emidio, Palazzo Fonzi, Palazzo dell’Arengo and the Baptistry of San Giovanni, not to mention the elliptical fountains flanked by seahorses, dragons and dolphins. At the far end of the square, stop by at Migliori for the city’s best known street food – olive all’ascolana. These delectable little flavour bombs are made by stuffing Ascolana olives with minced meat (cooked with wine and lemon zest), which are then crumbed and deep fried. Make sure you buy from a freshly fried batch and enjoy them slowly; bite into each one (instead of popping them whole in your mouth) and taste the individual layers of crumb, olive and meat. Before you know it, you’ll will have polished off the lot and will possibly be queuing up at Migliori’s on your way out of Ascoli!
Head over to Piazza del Popolo, the beautiful Renaissance square that is considered to be one of the best in Italy. The day I went to Ascoli, the town was gearing up to host the weekend market, so the square was almost completely covered with awnings and stalls. Yet, a look around the square and I could understand why it’s a beautiful “living room”. Surrounded by buildings with elegant loggias and ornate facades, it’s a visual treat strolling around in the square. The 13th century Palazzo dei Capitani del Popolo is the most imposing building in the piazza and it was the seat of the papal governors. The massive town clock is mounted on the facade of this building. The gothic church of San Francesco also stands in the piazza.
Couple of doors away is Bar Centrale, another old cafe, smaller but more atmospheric than Meletti. Here I tried mistra – a particularly strong anise-based liqueur typical to Le Marche, which I preferred to the anisetta.
I loved this! Thank you for highlighting this fabulous town. Obviously when medieval towers are concerned, my thoughts immediately turn to San Gimignano, but it feels good to discover another place in Italy which can rival it. Definitely something for my travel wish list. Best wishes from Vicenza.
Thanks, Rossi! Glad you liked it 🙂 Yes, San Gimignano is more famous, but Ascoli is a hidden gem, and not at all touristy!
Oh, you live in Vicenza?! Spent a day there in 2013 summer, would love to come back for a longer visit to admire all the Palladian architecture…
Giving me instant wanderlust! <3 Such a pretty town and so much history. this is what I love about ITALY. The real Italy lies in the smaller towns. have you been to Umbria? If not, you must. It is so much like Marche!
Ascoli is lovely, as is rest of Marche! I haven't yet been to Umbria, but it is on my list 😀
Just like Marche is on mine and the rest of ITALY 😛