Of course I had a few, totally paranoid moments with my hyperactive imagination going into fifth gear – what if the roof caves in, what if that stalactite dislodges itself and comes crashing down on me, are there ghosts down here… You get the drift? After a while, these thoughts melted away and I began to calm down. To say that I was enjoying myself would certainly be a lie, but I was able to appreciate that rare silence – so alien to us city-dwellers who are used to having every moment accompanied by a background score, most often of the jarring kind… But how did I stumble upon this soundless moment? Let’s rewind.
At the end of the trail, a small gate opens towards a narrow gap through which the speleological expedition begins. One look at the entrance and I knew it was going to be tough going for me. Claustrophobia kicked in as soon as I squeezed myself through the entrance. I took a few wobbly steps ahead, but it was a lost cause. I had to turn back, while the husband went ahead with Graziano and the folks from Life Marche magazine.
The Tempio del Valadier (Temple of Valadier) is a short drive from the Frasassi Caves, plus a steep climb for about 15-20 minutes (the climb is on a paved path and is feasible for anyone with a basic level of fitness).
The striking church, built in 1828, stands just inside the mouth of a natural cave. The octagonal church was designed by the Italian architect Giuseppe Valadier in his characteristic neo-classical style, and was built with white travertine blocks extracted from the stone quarry above the cave. The perfect symmetry of the church, built by Man, stands against the rough walls of the cave, hewn by Nature – it’s quite a sight to behold, and well worth the effort of the steep climb!
Quite unlike most churches, this ‘temple’ is topped with a dome. The church’s interior is plain, in stark contrast to the opulently decorated and frescoed Italian churches. But then this place is a “refuge of sinners”. In the 10th century, this cave (and many others in the nearby hills of Genga) was a place where locals sought refuge from the marauding Hungarian tribes. When construction of the church began, human bones, artefacts and coins dating to the Bronze Age were discovered in the cave. Today the Temple of Valadier is a pilgrimage site for believers seeking forgiveness for their sins. There’s a small shrine at one end of the cave, with an altar where people have left behind offerings and messages of repentance.
As we were about to leave the church, we could see a thunderstorm coming. Flashes of lightning, claps of thunder and a slight drizzle had started by the time we began our descent. Since the pathway was unsheltered, we practically began running down the slope – my legs were protesting for days afterwards – and only breathed a sigh of relief once we had reached the safety of the car. After the ‘adventure’ of the caves earlier, it turned out to be quite an eventful day!
Both the Frasassi Caves and the Temple of Valadier are an easy day trip from Ancona, the capital city of Le Marche. You can book tickets for the Frasassi Caves online. Wear comfortable walking shoes and carry a jacket; the temperature underground is about 14°C all year round. The Temple of Valadier is free entry.
Disclosure: Our experience in Le Marche was made possible by Life Marche Magazine. Views are entirely my own.
The very story of discovery Frasassi Caves in http://www.frasassigsm.it