This is the best way to visit Machu Picchu, Peru
In celebration of my blog turning 13 today (a teenager!), I decided to post about my favourite trip this year. I’m not a fan of the term “bucket list” but a few places certainly seem worthy of a once-in-a-lifetime trip. For me, it was the 15th-century Inca citadel, Machu Picchu in Peru. I was fascinated with it ever since I read about it — possibly in a Childcraft / Worldcraft book. Over time, work trips and holidays took me all over the world. But Peru (and for that matter, South America) never happened. Until this year. A message landed in my LinkedIn mailbox from Peru Travel ME inviting me on a press trip to Peru, and of course, to visit Machu Picchu. Obviously, I jumped at it!
As an Indian national, you don’t need a visa to travel to Peru if you have a valid US or Schengen visa. Since I had both, it made my trip easier. And in early April, I was finally on a long flight from Mumbai to Lima (via Paris). The 10-day trip covered Lima, the Amazon rainforest, and Sacred Valley, which included Cusco and Machu Picchu.
The Inca empire
Carved over hundreds of millennia by the Urubamba (sacred river in Quechua), the Sacred Valley has been continuously inhabited for more than 3,000 years. It was from here that the Incas ruled, establishing the largest empire in pre-Columbian America. It connected modern-day Peru to parts of Ecuador, Bolivia, Argentina, Colombia, and Chile. Actually, the term Inca is a title, meaning king or nobleman. The correct name of the empire is Tawantinsuyu or land of four parts. A large part of this empire was built by the 11th emperor, Pachacuti. Most archaeologists now believe that Machu Picchu was built as an estate for him. Referred to as the “Lost City of the Incas”, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site attracting more than half a million people annually.
How to reach Machu Picchu
I spent a couple of days exploring Cusco (the ancient capital of the Incas) and other attractions in the Sacred Valley. These included the stunning ruins of Ollantaytambo, the charming market of Pisac, and an alpaca farm near Cusco. I even learnt how to shake up Peru’s national cocktail, the pisco sour. And then, it was time to visit Machu Picchu itself! You need a ticket to enter the site, and there are a limited numbers available every day. So book your ticket way in advance, particularly in the high season (May to August).
There are two ways to reach Machu Picchu. If you’re the active, adventurous sort, there’s the Inca trail hike. This could range from several hours to several days, depending upon your starting point. Most visitors take the train, a much more comfortable and quicker option. Peru Rail runs several trains through the day from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Caliente, the town near Machu Picchu. I travelled on the Vistadome Observatory, which I believe is the best way to reach Machu Picchu.
The Vistadome experience
I checked out early from Tambo del Inka, a gorgeous Luxury Collection property by Marriott. The Ollantaytambo train station was about 20km (30 mins) from the hotel and I made it in time for my 7.45 am departure. The indigo-blue train was just chugging into the station as I arrived, so I promptly boarded. My travel companions were Veronica Smulders (the owner of Peru Travel ME), our fab guide Juan, and Marco Guzmán, a pro photographer who shot many of the lovely photos in this post! By the way, the gorgeous jacket I’m wearing is made by a Peruvian brand, Cora (gifted to me by Veronica who is pictured below). Our outfit twinning is completely by chance!
The coach had wide panoramic windows on the side as well as on the roof, offering immersive views throughout the journey.
There was a beautifully decked out bar car adjacent to our coach, which opened onto an observation deck.
It was my favourite spot to catch stunning views of the verdant Andes and the gushing river that flowed alongside the train tracks. Another highlight of this train is the live entertainment. It was a festive atmosphere on board, listening to live traditional music and watching Peruvian folk dances — complete with costumes and masks!
We got a snack box (included in the ticket) with chips, an energy bar, and some sweets plus tea or coffee. However, I was more interested in sampling the famous Cusqueña beer that was available at the bar!
Where to eat near Machu Picchu
We arrived in Aguas Caliente, a cute little town with many cafes and restaurants where you can stop for a bite. Since we had a lunch booked later, we just wandered around the town while waiting for the bus that would take us up to Machu Picchu. The bus ride was also panoramic. As the road wound higher and higher, a light fog descended on the mountain tops. I had watched many videos online of people reaching Machu Picchu and facing a whiteout because of that notorious fog. So, I was praying hard all the way through!
Luckily, by the time we reached the top, it was bright and sunny. We had lunch at Tinkuy Restaurant, which is right by the entry gate of Machu Picchu. The restaurant is part of Sanctuary Lodge (a Belmond Hotel) and offers a delicious buffet for a reasonable price.
Exploring Machu Picchu
When you book your Machu Picchu ticket, you have to choose a circuit to follow. I recommend selecting circuit 1 or 2 as these are the panoramic ones that give you the iconic views. Of these, circuit 2 is the most popular and offers the classic experience. The other circuits merely go through the ruins and you won’t get that brag-worthy shot (like below).
What can I say about Machu Picchu that’s not already been said! It’s every bit as spectacular as the million photos you see online. But seeing it in person is a remarkable experience. I love old buildings — it’s fascinating seeing centuries-old structures still standing (even if in ruins), and touching the old stones made smooth by age… It’s enough to give me goosebumps (just like when I saw the Colosseum in Rome).
Remember that there’s a fair bit of climbing up and down on each of the circuits. Most of it is on original Inca stone steps, but ramps and additional steps are available at some places. Dress sensibly and wear comfortable shoes. Sneakers with a good grip are fine, you don’t need hiking shoes. You’re allowed to carry a small backpack, so bring water, sunscreen, and a poncho/raincoat — it can rain any time! You may also want to carry some medicine to combat altitude sickness.
The return journey
After spending a couple of hours exploring Machu Picchu, we took the bus back to Aguas Caliente. And it started raining just as we stepped off — I was glad to have lugged my raincoat along! Since our train was a bit later, we popped into one of the cafes to stay dry and grab some coffee. The return train ride passed away in a blur. We got another snack box, and the train staff put on a fashion show, modeling exquisite alpaca garments. From Ollantaytambo, it was another 2-hour drive to Cusco where I checked into Palacio del Inka, another beautiful Luxury Collection hotel by Marriott. It was a long, tiring day — but absolutely worth it to have seen my dream destination!
